habana

13 sept. 2017 - One music event that you will surely not want to miss is the Two Legends: From Revé to Van Van 2017 Concert, two great bands playing the classics that. Elio Revé and Juan Formell once wrote. The concert will be held on September. 30 at Ciudad Deportiva, the same place where The Rolling Stones gave ...
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TRADITIONAL

CUBA

1 SEP 2017 INCLUDING INCLUDING GUIDE GUIDE TOTO THE THE BEST BEST PLACES PLACES TOTO EAT, EAT, DRINK, DRINK, DANCE DANCE AND AND STAY STAY ININ HAVANA HAVANA

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LA HABANA.COM is an independent platform, which seeks to showcase the best in Cuba arts & culture, life-style, sport, travel and much more... We seek to explore Cuba through the eyes of the best writers, photographers and filmmakers, both Cuban and international, who live work, travel and play in Cuba. Beautiful pictures, great videos, reviews, insightful articles and inside tips.

SEP 2017

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CUBA TRAVEL NETWORK: WELCOME TO RHYTHM

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TO CUBA BOOK TODAY WITH CUBA TRAVEL NETWORK!

Come and experience Cuba with a company that's passionate about the magical island. Our on the ground team in Cuba is the first to know about the country's developments—from new hotels and tour possibilities to ever-changing travel regulations, and we love to show our beautiful home to the world. With Cuba Travel Network, experience Cuba as a traveler, not a tourist.

WHY TRAVEL WITH CUBA TRAVEL NETWORK? • Cuba Travel Network is the premier travel service provider for the individual traveler planning trips to Cuba, handling accommodation, all domestic flights and excursions. • On-the-ground assistance from expert concierge representatives throughout the island. • Choose from fully guided, flexible and special interest tours. • Real-time availability and immediate booking confirmation for 220+ hotels and 50+ rental car locations. • Secure online payment; Visa & MasterCard accepted.

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E D I T O R I A L Welcome to the September Traditional Cuba issue of La Habana Magazine. In this month’s issue you will find a selection of articles about traditions in Cuba, from religiosity, to that ultimate piece of clothing that goes by the name of “guayabera” to a drink made out of sugar cane spirits that traces its origins to the 19th century, and more. This is just a sample, though. Our website, www. lahabana.com, has loads of articles about traditional Cuba you can read about. Entertainment-wise, there’s a wide selection of music events this month: Heavy metal, fusion and alternative rock brought to you via the La Patria Grande Festival (Havana, September 22-October 1), electronic music through the Eyefie Festival (Havana, September 26-30), opera thanks to Cuba Lírica Festival (Havana, September 2-12), jazz by way of the Amigos del Jazz Meeting (Santiago de Cuba, September 2-4) and early music through Baroque September (Havana, September 2-29). One music event that you will surely not want to miss is the Two Legends: From Revé to Van Van 2017 Concert, two great bands playing the classics that Elio Revé and Juan Formell once wrote. The concert will be held on September 30 at Ciudad Deportiva, the same place where The Rolling Stones gave their historic concert in early 2016.

We especially wish to recommend “September” by Acosta Danza (September 8-10/14-17) which will present two world premieres; and the Post-it 4 exhibition (check our listings for venues and dates) an excellent opportunity to get acquainted with young Cuban artistic creation in all of its art forms. September 8 is the feast day of Our Lady of Charity— the Virgen de la Caridad del Cobre. Religious or not, the procession that takes place every year in the working-class neighborhood of Centro Habana and ends in Nuestra Señora de la Caridad Parrish is not to miss. September is also a lovely month to visit Cuba (check for any hurricane warnings, though). Gone are the tourist crowds of July and August, and accommodations are easier to find, whether at hotels or private homes. It’s still hot and a great time to go to the beach, or to just visit this Island and soak in its many traditions. Abrazos! The LaHabana.com Team SEP 2017

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lahabana. com CONTENTS SEPT 2017

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TWO OF SUGAR, THREE OF COFFEE

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PULLMAN CAYO COCO: ONE STEP CLOSER TO PARADISE

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POTPOURRI PLUS: CUBANS AND RELIGION THE CUBAN GUAYABERA: TRADITIONAL ATTIRE

I’M CUBAN: NO PROBLEM MY CANCHÁNCHARA IN TRINIDAD CUBA, NATURE DESTINATION “AMERICUBA” BY HAVANA MAESTROS: ONGOING MUSICAL BRIDGES BETWEEN CUBA AND THE UNITED STATES

SEP 2017

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HAVANA LISTINGS HAVANA

The ultimate guide to Havana with detailed reviews of where to eat, drink, dance, shop, visit and play. Unique insights to the place that a gregarious, passionate and proud people call home.

GUIDE

FEB 2017

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By Andreas Clark

Many think that the saying “two of sugar and three of coffee” that can still be heard from time to time in Havana refers to the ideal number of teaspoons needed to make a good coffee, Cuban style, but that’s not the case. The truth is that it refers to one of the few luxuries regular Havana residents could enjoy prior to 1959: two cents’ worth of sugar and three cents’ worth of coffee to create that caffeine fix in the morning. That in your stomach (and not much else) started you off on your day. Coffee, like almost everything else that we think of as typically Cuban, didn’t come from this Island but from somewhere else. But just like everything that gets here, it came to stay, finding the best soil on this island to set down deep roots.

TWO O F S U G AR T HRE E OF CO F F E E

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Having a coffee today, à la Cuba, in anybody’s home, is something quite different. More than anything this is an act of faith: to begin with, the tiny coffee cup—Cubans insist on serving the brew in miniscule portions—doesn’t have sugar: it has a whole lot of sugar! In the second place, there is very little water involved; the less water, the better. And in the third place, sure it has coffee, but maybe one half of it is composed of something you would never even dream of: dried peas. This is what Cubans call blended coffee. Not the coffee and chicory blends that are so common elsewhere, or the blend of different varieties of coffee beans, such as a robust type blended with strong tasting bean. No: when Cuban coffee gets mixed it isn’t with other coffee beans but with different grains, such as peas. That’s why that morning coffee is more of a placebo than anything else. As I said: an act of faith. That practice began as a result of coffee rationing—and the rationing of everything else—in the early years of the Revolution. But it happened in an almost clandestine fashion, in the houses of people who bought the coffee beans and toasted the peas in their kitchens to add them to the coffee in order to extend it and make it go further. It soon reached the ears of the government though and they standardized the practice. And it has survived to this day. SEP 2017

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And so it goes. Many have even rejected “pure” coffee because they say it has a nondescript taste. Right. It tastes of coffee, coffee alone and no additives, a taste that many ordinary Cubans have by now forgotten. In most homes, even in the 1970s, coffee would be brewed using a cloth filter placed inside a large white cone shaped like a metal colander. The finely ground coffee would be placed inside the cloth and boiling water would be poured over it. This custom can still be seen in the countryside. But in the cities, where the “moka-style” percolator has become the fashion, making a coffee is still referred to as “colar un café” or filtering a coffee. No matter how you make it, the most important thing about the very Cuban ritual of sitting down for a tiny cup of coffee is not for the coffee itself, it is the ritual. Even though the purity of the coffee we Cubans are drinking is questionable, what hasn’t changed, nor will it ever change, the thing that is not questionable, is the purity and the warmth of that everyday invitation to share a “buchito” (little mouthful) of coffee.

SEP 2017

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RESERVE ONE FLIGHT AND TRAVEL TO THREE DESTINATIONS It’s now possible to take one flight and unite three popular Cuban destinations. To save time, you can now take advantage of the daily Boeing 737 departure from Havana and travel to Holguín and Cayo Coco. This offer lasts until October 2017. Two daily flights, one in the morning, the other in the afternoon, will transport you to explore these three destinations. Havana. The cultural and nightlife epicenter of Cuba. Holguín. Known as the city of parks, we suggest you visit the emblematic Hill of the Cross. Cayo Coco. Known for its exotic nature and beautiful beaches, here you’ll find comfort and rest in its modern resorts.

ENJOY YOUR VACATIONS TO THE MAX WITH ONE FLIGHT AND THREE DESTINATIONS

CubaTravelNetwork.com US - [email protected] | 1 800 282 2468 (Toll Free) Europe - [email protected] | +31 (0)20 794 7962 Asia - [email protected] | 1800 198 150 (Toll Free) Rest of the world - [email protected] | +53 (0)7 214 0090

SEP 2017 10

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P U L L M A N C AYO C O C O : ONE STEP CLOSER TO PA R A D I S E by lahabana.com team

JUL 2017

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The system of cays on Cuba’s north coast, one of the country’s most exclusive areas, is an amazingly beautiful natural reserve. Pristine beaches and the presence of endemic species are a veritable magnet for visitors dreaming of a tropical paradise. The Pullman Cayo Coco Hotel promises you a dream of a vacation overlooking the crystal-clear waters of the Caribbean, providing you with this facility’s All-Inclusive services.

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The hotel is especially designed for families and has ample areas for the enjoyment of all. The hotel also has deluxe rooms or THE COLLECTION by Pullman, an adults-only section, and the exclusive Golden Villa with butler services.

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THE COLLECTION by Pullman needs special mention for its many advantages: it is located in an area separated from the main hotel, with junior suites, suites with living-dining areas, a private reception area and concierge services. Guests staying there have free Internet and exclusive access to the Gourmet Restaurant—à la carte international cuisine—and the 24-hour El Montecarlo Pool Snack Bar. There is also an adults-only swimming pool.

SEP 2017 14

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During their stay at the hotel, guests will certainly not have to miss any of the dishes from their home countries. The menu is varied and highly praised by the Pullman Cayo Coco clientele. Every day, guests can choose from French, Japanese or Cuban Creole cuisine and enjoy the mixed drinks at the El Carey Snack Bar, open round the clock.

SEP 2017 15

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This 5-star facility is the ideal place to plan your dream beachside wedding, in the company of family and friends. It also has the required privacy to organize business meetings and events. Close to both the Gaviota Marina and Cayo Coco Airport, guests will be guaranteed an ease of access and mobility.

SEP 2017 16

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PRESENTED BY

CHOOSE PULLMAN CAYO COCO AND EXPERIENCE A SINGULAR VACATION Book with Cuba Travel Network (CTN)

CUBA CTN House, Calle 31, No. 1411, e/14 y 18 Miramar, Playa, Havana T: (+53) 7 14 0090 / (+53) 7 14 0091 NETHERLANDS Alexander Boersstraat 60 1071 KZ Amsterdam T: (+31) 20 794 7962 AUSTRALIA Newcastle, New South Wales T: 1 800 198 150 (Australia Toll Free) USA 25 Broadway, 9th Floor, New York, NY 10004 T: (347) 758-4209 SEP 2017

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EEUU - [email protected] 1 800 282 2468 (Toll Free) Europa - [email protected] +31 (0)20 794 7962 Asia - [email protected] 1800 198 150 (Toll Free) Rest of the world - [email protected] +53 (0)7 214 0090 www.cubatravelnetwork.com

PALACIO AZUL A PRETTY BAYSIDE BLUE PALACE A small boutique hotel, the duck-egg blue Palacio Azul faces the Bay of Cienfuegos, and is 10 minutes by foot to the UNESCO-crowned historic city center. Built in 1920, the domed hotel features 7 rooms, a marble staircase, and beautiful original art nouveau tiled floors. Catch the breeze on the rooftop terrace, and enjoy the neighboring architectural stunners — the Club Cienfuegos and the Palacio del Valle.

SEP 2017 18

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I’m Cuban:

NO PROBLEM

by Ernesto Pérez Castillo

SEP 2017 18

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On a certain morning, far away in time and space, in the grey city of Bogota, I had a sudden revelation about that very secret identity of Cubans. It happened in a bar, Salome by name, after four beers, as it should be, although because of its low alcohol content, we might as well forget its name. The musicians had the place hopping. The sones and guarachas just kept on coming until, during a pause after midnight, I saw them sitting practically one on top of another around a table loaded with bottles. We’re talking about the 1990s when quite a few Cuban musicians had taken their music to some other place on the planet. They looked like they were Cubans so I moved over to their table. I wanted to hear them talk, make sure they were from Havana to have a couple of drinks with them in that dry and cold dawn so far away from the Malecón. The sound of their voices wasn’t telling me anything: either they weren’t Cubans or they had been circling the globe for too long. The voices were tainted with Colombian, Puerto Rican, Mexican intonations…they might have been from anywhere and so, possibly, they could indeed by Cubans…but that wasn’t enough. I had to have hard evidence before I would introduce myself.

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The trumpet player in the group spoke. He was complaining that his trumpet wasn’t giving him the notes he wanted…he said it might be the mouthpiece, it was too long…and then he uttered a phrase that I have etched in my memory, something that wiped out any of my doubts: “mañana, cuando me despierte, voy a coger la segueta y le voy a cortar un pedazo, y tú verás cómo va a sonar” [when I get up tomorrow, I’m going to find a hacksaw and cut a piece off that mouthpiece and you’ll hear how good it sounds]. That turn of phrase was a complete and precise confession of his Cuban-ness. Had he been from Santo Domingo, Lima or Medellin, he would have said: “When I get up tomorrow I’ll go to the store and buy a smaller one.” It would only occur to a Cuban to fix the problem himself, cutting down the mouthpiece. And that is a distinctive trait of Cubans: the tendency to almost compulsively look for solutions outside of the box, perhaps motivated by the fact that they have always had a very small box.

SEP 2017 20

lahabana. com The most clever and surprising invention per se is not what describes a Cuban. There is another detail attached to that. Many times you’ll hear it said that a Cuban is a human being who dances. But dancing is not only a Cuban piece of business, but it is definitely the fact that a Cuban, when he dances, laughs. Not every Cuban dances, and every Cuban who dances doesn’t necessarily dance well; there are even those who dance badly, even really badly, but they all laugh when they dance.

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VARADERO: A TRUE CARIBBEAN PARADISE Jump in!

That’s it. The laugh. Not from happiness, but the laugh itself, even the laugh which really shouldn’t be there…that’s what is typically Cuban. In the worst of circumstances, when Cubans realize that things which were already bad have suddenly, incredibly, gotten worse, their first reaction is to laugh. They find it laughable that the challenges they have to face now have grown in size. They laugh and they relax. It doesn’t solve the problem but it’s important anyway, and that’s where the typical Cuban saying comes up: No problem, chico! And there’s a third detail, among so many others, that indicates typical Cuban-ness. It’s the innate capacity of treating people as equals, no matter where they are, regardless of race, class, religion or gender. Cubans never consider themselves to be less and they always willingly offer what they have to whoever they run across. If you don’t believe me, just go out into the world and ask—wherever you go people always speak well of Cubans.

SEP 2017 22

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MY CANCHÁNCHARA

in Trinidad

by Patricia Font

SEP 2017 23

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It has been said that when General Máximo Gómez, commander of the Cuban Independence Army in the war against Spain and quite surprisingly not a Cuban but born in the Dominican Republic, was asked about who his most valued officers were, he confessed: “The principal officers on my General Staff are General July and General August.”

ch ara Sure enough: in his battle plans he was always taking into account the damages, exhaustion and demoralization suffered by the Spanish troops whenever they had to go to battle during the rigors of the Cuban summer. Scorching sun, overwhelming heat and suffocating humidity were important allies in the fight for Cuban independence. Of course the Cubans also had to fight under the same set of conditions, but they had a secret weapon in their arsenal that helped them to resist the adverse and changing climate. Cuban soldiers joined the fray extremely well equipped with their personal doses of that indispensable drink: the “canchánchara.”

SEP 2017 23

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Tied to the pommel of their saddles, hanging from their belts beside their awesome well-sharpened machetes, there was always a bottle containing a mixture of honey, lemon juice (or any other citrus juice available) and sugarcane spirits. The portions would vary according to individual taste. Basic but fabulous, the drink which they named canchánchara allowed them to keep fresh in the stifling heat of long marches under the sun or after heated skirmishes with the enemy. It was also useful to warm their bones on those cold mornings high in the Cuban hills. In other words, it was a drink for all occasions.

The cocktail is still around today. Its prime sanctuary is the town of Trinidad where it gets served as an exclusive drink even though it really started out in the eastern part of the Island. Easy to prepare, its formula is based on half an ounce of honey, half an ounce of lemon juice, one ounce and a half of spirits, and then mixed together. Ordinarily served over ice, this accentuates the pleasure of its taste. In our Cuban “fake” winter or during the scorching summer months, savoring a well-concocted canchánchara can make all the difference between having a good time and having a great time.

SEP 2017 24

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C U B A , N AT U R E D E ST I N AT I O N NEW TOURIST ROUTES TO by lahabana.com team ORIENTE SEP 2017 25

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Some of the most impressive landscapes in Cuba can be found in the eastern part of the island, what is known in Cuba as Oriente. Here, you are likely to come across Cuba’s national bird, the tocororo or Cuban trogon; or Polymitas, which are considered the most beautiful land snails in the world. The abundant biodiversity of flora and fauna in the area continually attracts a great number of visitors who choose Cuba as their holiday destination. And this is precisely the focus of TURNAT 2017, the 11th International Nature Tourism Event, which will be held September 26-30. The event has been designed for tour operators, travel agencies, and other parties involved in ecotourism. One of the great attractions of the event will be the presentation of three traditional tourist routes in this setting: Columbus in Holguín, Coffee in Santiago de Cuba and Cacao in Guantánamo. These will be part now of a great variety of options for nature tourists who choose to visit the largest island in the Caribbean. The discoverer of the American continent, Christopher Columbus, set foot on Cuban soil in 1492, on Bariay Bay in Playa Blanca, approximately 37 kilometers from the city of Holguín. The area has infinite natural values, among which are theincluding Guardalavaca, Esmeralda and Pesquero beaches; as well as rivers, caves and several archaeological sites. Diving enthusiasts will find coral reefs and wrecks in the underwater platform. El recorrido de los visitantes continúa en la tierra caliente, Santiago de Cuba, donde el café se prepara de manera SEP 2017 26

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The visitors’ journey continues in Santiago de Cuba, where coffee is prepared differently from the rest of the country—it is sweetened with honey. While delighting in one of the most popular drinks in Cuba, the traveler will become acquainted with the close ties and history that exists between the people of Santiago de Cuba and the cultivation of coffee—the mountains in the eastern part of the land are home to large areas of where the crop is grown

SEP 2017 27

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A trip to Oriente is not complete without setting foot in Baracoa— Cuba’s first city—which produces exquisite cacao. Its cultivation, collection, roasting and grinding are part of the culture and pride of Baracoenses, who are a mixture of Spaniards and Indians. Through the history of cacao, visitors will learn here how Cubanidad, all things Cuban, was formed. HISTORY AND NATURE, TWO FEATURES THAT ARE JOINED IN THESE ROUTES THAT ARE ESPECIALLY DESIGNED TO SHOWCASE THE BEAUTY OF OUR COUNTRY.

RECOMMENDED EXCURSIONS IN ORIENTE Jeep Safari to Comandancia La Plata Private City Tour Santiago de Cuba Jeep Safari to La Gran Piedra Santiago Special - private tour Baconao Special - private tour Jeep Safari to Comandancia La Plata Contacta con Cuba Travel Network: (0) 7214 0090 (0) 7214 0091

SEP 2017 29

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MESÓN DEL REGIDOR - INTIMATE HOTEL IN THE HEART OF UNESCO CITY STUNNER This tiny hotel, with just four rooms, is found in a restored ochre and blue Spanish colonial building in the heart of Trinidad, a UNESCO World Heritage site. It’s a cobblestone’s throw from the palaces-turned-museums, and main square and church, of this beautiful city, and the growing number of private restaurants. EEUU - [email protected] 1 800 282 2468 (Toll Free) Europa - sales.europe[email protected] +31 (0)20 794 7962 Asia - [email protected] 1800 198 150 (Toll Free) Rest of the world- [email protected] +53 (0)7 214 0090

www.cubatravelnetwork.com

SEP 2017 30

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“AMERICUBA” BY HAVANA MAESTROS: ONGOING MUSICAL BRIDGES BETWEEN CUBA AND THE UNITED STATES by Rafa G. Escalona

SEP 2017 31

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Frank and Christian Berman have done it again. Ten years after the hugely popular album Rhythms del Mundo by the stars of the Buena Vista Social Club, they are reprising the formula of reworking famous American popular songs with popular Cuban music arrangements and Cuban artists performing. Like the first time, the result is a winner. The Berman brothers draw from very popular numbers, using the original audio voice tracks to which they add catchy Cuban rhythms—no one can resist moving along to the beat. Released towards the end of May, Americuba has 10 tracks, which, imbued with those potent rhythms of the mambo, cha-cha-cha, bolero and son, make up an interesting exercise of hybridization and up-dating of hits such as “Get Ur Freak On” by Missy Elliot and Dionne Warwick’s “Say a Little Prayer”. Taking advantage of the era of digital distribution, the cherry on the cake is a Cuban version of Major Lazer’s “Lean On,” recorded as a bonus track, only available as an online download. On this occasion, the arrangements are being made by the outstanding pianists Emilio Vega and Harold López-Nussa, and performed by a band of musicians of the caliber of Amadito Valdés (timbales), Barbarito Torres (laúd), Roberto García (trumpet) and Emilio Morales, SEP 2017 32

lahabana. com along with other musicians associated with the legendary Buena Vista Social Club. A total of 42 musicians took part in the project. Americuba had carte blanche at the Abdala Studios to record in the manner of yesteryear’s great records, with all of the studio facilities at the full disposition of the musicians without any time pressure, selecting favorite numbers to reinterpret and listening to the original voices, playing around with the arrangements until they got the effect they wanted. The album successfully combines the expertise of masterful arrangements with infectiously joyful performances, bringing the natural flair and sound of groups used to playing in the squares and parks of Old

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Havana’s tourist areas. That’s one of the greatest coups of the album: bringing together a number of pieces that the often anonymous traditional Cuban musicians have played (or could play) at any one of their nightly artistic forays in a curious homage to mutual influences. Mind you, with Americuba, the Berman brothers have not invented anything new under the sun. They are treading along the path of tried and true success. The New York Times critic John Pareles writes that this concept could seem to be kitschy. Instead, he has explained that the pairing serves to detect the influence of Cuba on much of US popular music. And vice versa I would add. One thing is certain, whether it is innovative or not, it is impossible to resist the contagious rhythms of piano and percussion, and the hypnotic melodies of the metal instruments in this recording.

lahabana. com The project doesn’t stop at recording and distributing the album. It launches a series of performances in Cuba, the US and other countries. The idea is not just to bring back some fabulous music from the pasts of both nations, but to generate a much more contemporary exchange. As Emilo Vega has so correctly indicated, Americuba underlines the importance of having the two countries work together. It is a demonstration of how much can be done in music and in many other areas of culture and society in general. “We want people to be inspired to see and learn more about Cuba. We want them to live the experience,” the distinguished pianist stated.

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Without being part of the more organic musical exchanges between the two countries, Americuba reveals how intertwined their popular music can really be, being born in very similar contexts. Distributed by Warner Music, the tracks in this album are called on to be part of world music songs, present anywhere in the world, whether as mood music in a coffee house or in a party to give the event a Latin touch. Let’s hope that this tribute to the musical greatness of Cuba and the United States provides a soundtrack for constructive discussions in relations between the two countries, a zone of peace in the midst of so much xenophobia and separation.

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POTPOURRI PLUS: CUBANS AND RELIGION

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by Bastián P. Guerra

SEP 2017 35

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“Todo mezclado”: everything mixed up together. If there has been anybody who could define Cuba with wit and skill, that person was poet Nicolás Guillén. And he did so with just those two words in Spanish: todo mezclado. That’s how we are, and that’s how we are in everything and for everything. There is no way to expect anything else. You aren’t going to get apples from a mamey tree. Unlike most of the rest of the Americas, Cuba has just a faint memory of its original inhabitants. Instead, after the newly arrived Spanish conquistadores arrived on the Island (an archipelago, actually) they exterminated the Guanahatabey, Taino and Siboney peoples they found here with blood and fire, and then wave after wave of Africans were brought to our shores.

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But calling them “Africans” is not quite right. In that era there was no such place as Africa, at least not for those peoples who were ripped from their lands and brought to the New World as slaves. There was a Kingdom of the Dahomey and Calabar, and far to the south the great Namibian desert, numerous and varied cultures that had notable differences amongst themselves. In many cases they only had contact with each other after they had crossed to this side of the Atlantic, in the slave quarters of the sugar cane plantations. More or less the same thing occurred with Spain, a new kingdom transformed into an empire where the sun never set but where, in their European territory, they too were split up into many different cultures such as the Galicians, Andalusians, Basques, Catalans… So, together with the French ejected from Haiti, the almond-eyed Chinese, the red-haired Irish and the Slavs looking for their place in the sun, all that humanity disembarked on this Island. Their baggage included traditions, habits and customs, and something else: each one’s own particular way of looking at the world via myths, ancestral gods, rites and religious beliefs.

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From out of this amalgam sprouted the unique sense of religiosity of Cubans today, in a spectrum where the overriding element is perhaps Catholicism, but it cohabits with a strong tinge of Judaism, it is seasoned with Islam, and it is embroidered with the Protestantism that was brought by the Americans at the beginning of the 20th century when they arrived to occupy Cuba. And at the center of all this, almost as alpha and omega, is Santeria, deep within the hearts of the people. This is a world all to itself since “Santeria is only a word that was coined by those not knowing too much about it and it covers the spiritual contributions of the Afrodescendants. We have the predominant Regla de Ocha, but there is also Arará, Gangá, the Paleros, voodoo and even Cordon’s Spiritism.

Sometimes these beliefs overlap and sometimes, if you have ever visited your Babalao at night or gone to mass early in the morning to take Communion, you are partaking in a fabulous syncretic phenomenon. The term used by the wise Don Fernando Ortiz to synthesize the transculturization effects on the Cuban identity was “ajiaco”: that stew resulting from mixing a little bit of everything into the pot. It never tastes exactly the same, but it always amazes us with its marvelous flavor. That is Cuban religiosity, impossible to capture on just a few paragraphs, but it is clearly evident in the Virgen de la Caridad del Cobre, Cuba’s Patron Saint: copper-colored skin, a mulatto virgin, completely Cuban, our very own beloved virgin of charity.

SEP 2017 37

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Be greeted by imposing colonial fortresses at the bayside entrances to the cities of Cienfuegos, Santiago, and Havana. Onboard, experience how vibrant and cool Cuba is at first hand. You’ll love the dynamic, musical and joyful spirit of the Cubans which infuses the island’s way of life.

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The Celestial Crystal offers a quality all-inclusive service plus suites, cabins, elegant rooms, restaurants, open spaces, and a whole variety of services to enjoy during your trip. Set sail with Cuba Travel Network and SAVE 15% on early bookings. OFFER VALID UNTIL SEPTEMBER 30 2017

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Asia - [email protected] | 1800 198 150 (Toll Free) Rest of the world - [email protected] | +53 (0)7 214 0090 SEP 2017 38

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T H E C U B A N G U AYA B E R A : T R A D I T I O N A L AT T I R E Marilyn Bobes

SEP 2017 39

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For all intents and purposes it seems that the guayabera, a traditional Cuban piece of clothing and available to all, came to life in 18th-century Sancti Spíritus when a couple from Andalusia in Spain brought a bolt of linen with them from their homeland. José Pérez Rodríguez asked his wife Encarnación Núñez García to sew up some loose shirts from the cloth; it was to have long sleeves and large pockets and could be used not tucked into the trousers. As legend has it, and many scholars adhere to the folklore as being truthful, this article of clothing soon became popular and in the different regions of Cuba it took on specific characteristics embellishing but not taking away from the original concept. Reviled and accepted almost in the same breath, depending upon the era, this typically Cuban article of clothing first took off for the Yucatan in Mexico where they started to produce the shirts, and then they reached Asia, specifically Tokyo and Taiwan. During the 19th century, everything appears to indicate that neither the Cuban peasants nor the Mambi freedom fighters in the wars of independence ever wore them. The oldest reference to it in literature comes up in Nicolás Heredia’s novel Leonela, published in 1893, but it tells a story that happened prior to the Ten Years’ War, which began in Cuba in 1868.

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It is also said that in 1866, when Nicolás Azcárate was elected as delegate to the Junta de Información de Madrid in Güines, a town in western Cuba, the celebratory party held by the electors was attended by peasants wearing guayaberas with mother-of-pearl buttons and Panama, hats. The word “guayabera” did not actually become legitimized until 1921 when Constantino Suárez included it in the Cuban vocabulary. On occasions, the guayabera has been seen as a “cheap” article of clothing, but it became vastly popular in Havana in the 1940s during the Ramón Grau San Martín government. That was when it made its triumphal entry into the Presidential Palace.

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In the 1950s, President Carlos Prío threw it out, deeming it was not elegant enough. In that same era, the guayabera was ejected from the Supreme Court Governing Hall and that was its status until many years after the triumph of the Revolution. In the 1970s, it apprehensively reappeared, with long sleeves and tiny pleats, but now it was made of polyester instead of linen. And it wasn’t always white. In those days, young Cubans refused to wear them, quite the contrary to what is happening today. Now it has become an essential piece in the wardrobes of a wide sector of the population, including women. You can buy guayaberas in special shops in the Historical Center of Havana, choosing from a variety of sizes and styles and practically every color conceivable. It has acquired the distinction of belonging to national textile design. But in Sancti Spíritus, where it is believed that the guayabera was born, it has become quite the symbol. A socio-cultural project bearing the name of this piece of clothing has created a sort of museum exhibiting guayaberas worn by famous personalities in the worlds of culture, politics and sport. They have been donated by those same individuals or by their families. SEP 2017 41

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Along the same lines, we also celebrate the day on which this shirt was brought to Cuba by that Andalusian couple. By then they were quite “Cubanized” and unbeknownst to them they created an attribute of traditional Cuban spirit. So let us celebrate the arrival of this symbol just as we celebrate our Cuban music. And let us all have our guayabera ready in our closets, so that we can take part in a guateque (one of those typical festivities of Cuban guajiros, or peasants) or for whenever we need to attend some solemn occasion.

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C U LT U R E G U I D E BEST EVENTS THIS MONTH MUSIC THEATRE DANCE

ART EXHIBITION FILM. EVENTS & FESTIVALS IN CUBA



UPCOMING EVENTS IN 2017



FOR KIDS

RESTAURANTS BARS & CLUBS HOTELS PRIVATE ACCOMMODATION

HAVANA GUIDE SEP 2017 43

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BEST EVENTS THIS MONTH PAG. 32

PAG. 32

com magazine lahabana. BEST EVENTS THIS magazine MONTH

OUR SUGGESTIONS FOR THE BEST EVENTS YOU WON’T WANT TO MISS PAG. 32

PAG. 32

GRAN TEATRO DE LA HABANA ALICIA ALONSO September 8-9/14-17

Dance performance “September” by Acosta Danza With Carlos Acosta at the helm, Acosta Danza dance company will present two world premieres and several reruns.

COLISEO DE LA CIUDAD DEPORTIVA SEPTEMBER 30

Music concert Two Legends: From Revé to Van Van Concert by two of the most popular bands of Cuban dance music: Elito Revé y su Charangón, and Juan Formell’s Los Van Van. •

GRAN TEATRO DE LA HABANA ALICIA ALONSO THROUGH SEPTEMBER 15

TEATRO MELLA Línea e/ A y B, El Vedado T: 77833 5651, 833 8696

SEPTEMBER 1

Music concert Joe Bonamassa American blues rock guitarist, singer and songwriter in concert •

TRIBUNA ANTIMPERIALISTA SEPTEMBER 2 AT 9 PM – 1 AM

Music concert End of the Summer 2017 concert with Pupy y los que Son Son & Havana de Primera. •

Art exhibition ...Se hace camino al andar This exhibition of the most recent acquisitions for the National Council of Visual Arts Collection offers a panorama of aesthetics and trends of Cuban art today. • SEP 2017 44

LATEST MUSIC NEWS

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com magazine lahabana. BEST EVENTS THIS MONTH

LA PLAZA CULTURAL CENTER Calles 31 y 2, La Timba, Plaza de la Revolución

The new La Plaza Cultural Center of 31st and 2nd streets in El Vedado includes the Casa de la Música Plaza (capacity for around 300 people, open from 9:30 pm to 3am) and the Piano Bar Convergencias (open from 5pm to 10pm). Although its programming has not yet been announced, we do know that it will offer both live and recorded Cuban music Tuesdays through Sundays. The center also has a theater for movies and plays, a bookstore and La Paila shop • CAFÉ CANTANTE MI HABANA Paseo y 39, El Vedado T: 7878 4273 & 7878 4275

Almost after having released their most recent album, “Los caballeros de la noche,” the popular band Qva Libre returns to its usual venue on Wednesdays at 5pm, a meeting point for lovers of the fusion of Cuban rhythms, rock and pop. • MAXIM ROCK Bruzón 62 e/ Almendares y Ayestarán, Plaza

After a lengthy refurbishment, Maxim Rock, the top venue for Cuban rock, the mecca in Havana of lovers of this genre, will reopen its doors in the coming months. • CAFÉ BERTOLT BRECHT Calle 13 e/ I y J, El Vedado T: 7830 1354 & 7832 9359

Fusion music at its best. Robertico Carcassés’ Interactivo band is back at their usual venue on Wednesdays at 11pm. • JUL 2017 45

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CASA DE LA MÚSICA MIRAMAR Avenida 35 esq. a 20, Miramar T: 7204 0447

MON-SUN AT 5 PM & 11 PM

Various popular live bands Phone for weekly program •

The best live music in Havana

LIVE MUSIC VENUES

MONDAYS AT 5 PM

Maykel Blanco y su Salsa Mayor • TUESDAYS AT 5 PM

Havana de Primera • WEDNESDAYS AT 11 PM

Alberto Alvarez • FRIDAYS AT 5 PM

El Niño y la verdad • SUNDAYS AT 5 PM

Bamboleo • CAFÉ CANTANTE

PIANO BAR DIABLO TUN TUN

TEATRO NACIONAL

CASA DE LA MÚSICA MIRAMAR

Paseo y 39, El Vedado

Avenida 35 esq. a 20, Miramar

T: 7878 4275

T: 7204 0447

MON-SAT

Various live music concerts Phone for weekly program • MONDAYS AT 9 PM

Manana Club • TUESDAYS AT 9 PM

El Noro y 1ra Clase & guests • WEDNESDAYS AT 5 PM

Qva Libre (fusion) •

WED-SUN AT 5 PM & 11 PM

Various live music concerts Phone for weekly program • WEDNESDAYS AT 5 PM

Aisar y el Expresso de Cuba • WEDNESDAYS AT 11 PM

Osain del Monte (rumba) • THURSDAYS AT 5 PM

Ray Fernández (trova) • THURSDAYS AT 11 PM

NG la Banda • SUNDAYS AT 5 PM

Discotemba •

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CABARET TURQUINO HOTEL HABANA LIBRE Calle L e/ 23 y 25, El Vedado T: 7834 6100

Phone for weekly program

MONDAYS AT 12 PM

La Corte • TUESDAYS AT 12 PM

Fiebre Latina • WEDNESDAYS AT 12 PM

Caribe Girls • THURSDAYS AT 12 PM

La Tabla • FRIDAYS AT 12 PM

Mónica Mesa • SATURDAYS AT 12 PM

HABANA CAFÉ HOTEL COHÍBA Paseo e/ 1ra y 3ra, El Vedado T: 7833 3636 (after 6pm)

MON, THU & FRI

La Tabla •

Buena Vista Social Club•

SUNDAYS AT 12 PM

SATURDAYS

Calle Cuba •

Various popular Cuban bands •

Phone for weekly program •

SALÓN ROSADO DE LA TROPICAL

SALÓN ROJO

EL SAUCE

SARAO’S BAR

Esq. 46 y 41, Playa

HOTEL CAPRI

Calle 9na. e/ 120 y 130, Playa

Calle 17 esq. E, El Vedado

T: 7203 5322

Calles 21 y N, El Vedado

T: 7204 7114 y 7204 7061

T: 7832 0433

T: 7833 0666

Phone for weekly program •

Phone for weekly program •

FRIDAYS AT 8 PM-2 AM

Electronic music, DJs • SATURDAYS AT 8 PM-2 AM

Various live bands • SUNDAYS AT 4 PM-9 PM

Various live bands •

Phone for weekly program • WEDNESDAYS AT 6 PM12 AM

Bamboleo • THURSDAYS AT 6 PM12 AM

Manana Club • Maikel Blanco y su Salsa Mayor • Pupy y los que Son Son •

THU - SAT

Varied live performances • SUNDAYS AT 5 PM

Discotemba La Máquina de la Melancolía •

THURSDAYS AT 12:00 AM

Alain Daniel • SUNDAYS AT 11 PM

Interactivo (fusion) •

Alternating weekly

FRIDAYS AT 6 PM12 AM

Paulo FG • SEP 2017 47

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lahabana. magazine LIVE com MUSIC magazine VENUES DON CANGREJO Avenida 1ra. #1606, entre 16 y 18, Miramar T: 7204 3837 y 7204 3839

THU - SAT

Live concerts • Phone for weekly program

BULE-BAR 66 San Rafael y Prado, Centro Habana

DAILY, OPENS AT 10 PM

CORNER CAFÉ

FRIDAYS AT 11 PM

(Various rock bands) •

Calle B y 1ra, El Vedado T: 7837 1220

SATURDAYS AT 10 PM

Phone for weekly program •

David Torrens • Kelvis Ochoa • Ray Fernández (trova) •

MONDAYS AT 11 PM

Various jazz bands •

Alternating weekly

WEDNESDAYS AT 3 AM – 6 AM

SUNDAYS AT 10 PM

DJ Mary Paz (Afterparty) •

Projecto “Enredate” various bands •

THURSDAYS AT 8 PM

DJs electronica, popular • CASA DE LA AMISTAD Paseo 406 e/ 17 y 19, El Vedado T: 7830 3114

Phone for weekly program • SATURDAYS AT 8:30 PM

Grupo Cristal (Cuban dance music) • SUNDAYS AT 6:30 PM

La Vieja Escuela (rock)

Varied live music • SATURDAYS AT 10 PM

Grupo Moncada •

LA PIRAGUA Calle 19 y Malecón, El Vedado

EVERY OTHER SATURDAY AT 10 PM

Various music bands • LE SELECT

CLUB AMANECER

Calle 28 y 5ta. avenida, Miramar

Calle 15 #113 e/ N y Malecón, El Vedado

T: 7212 5268, 7207 9681, 7204 7410/4090/4098

T: 7832 9075

PABELLÓN CUBA

Phone for weekly program •

Calles 23 y N, El Vedado

Phone for weekly program • FRIDAYS AT 9 PM

Yaíma Sáez & her group • SATURDAYS AT 8 PM1 AM

Cary Bridón & guests

MONDAYS AT 4 PM-8 PM

Habana Salsa • SATURDAYS AT 4 PM8 PM

Explosión Rumbera

T: 7832 3511

SEPTEMBER 3 AT 6PM

Closing concert of the Art Fair in La Rampa with David Blanco y su grupo • SEP 2017 48

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CIUDAD DEPORTIVA Vía Blanca y Boyeros, El Cerro

SEPT 30 AT 8 PM

Elito Revé y su Charangón & Los Van Van in concert •

TRIBUNA ANTIMPERIALISTA Calzada y Malecón, El Vedado

lahabana. magazine LIVEcom MUSIC magazine VENUES

SEPT 2 AT 9 PM

Pupy y los que Son Son & Havana de Primera in concert •

SEP 2017 49

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SUBMARINO AMARILLO Calles 17 y 6, El Vedado T: 7830-6808

MONDAYS AT 9 PM

The Sheppal • SUNDAYS AT 5 PM

Eddy Escobar •

CAFÉ TEATRO BERTOLT BRECHT Calle 13 Esq. a I, El Vedado T: 7832 9359

Phone for weekly program • WEDNESDAYS AT 11 PM

Interactivo • SATURDAYS AT 11 PM

David Blanco • Sweet Lizzy Project • Alternating weekly

RÍO CLUB Calle A #314 e/ 3ra. y 5ta., Miramar T: 7209 3389

SATURDAYS AT 12 PM6 AM

Electronic music •

BALNEARIO UNIVERSITARIO EL CORAL Calles 1ra. y 42, Miramar

FRI & SAT, 1 PM1 AM

Rapping, djing, vjing, dj-producers, breakdancing, graffiti writing, and other urban artists • SEP 2017 50

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The best live music in Havana

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magazine FAC lahabana. - FÁBRICA DEcom ARTE CUBANO

FAC FÁBRICA DE ARTE CUBANO

Place of Cuban culture with industrial scale of hipness. This literally is an art factory–multiple art galleries and endless performance venues. Always packed with funky crowds. There are also several bars and a restaurant. Check website for FAC’s opening and closing schedules. Calle 26 esquina a 11, El Vedado T: 7838-2260 www.fac.cu SEPTEMBER 1 8:30 PM, HALL 3

Contemporary dance classes • 9 PM, HALL 1

Session Dj Productores: Tievo • 9:30 PM, HALL 3

Creación # 2 (No Lo Llames Poder), dance performance • 11 PM, HALL 4

Concert by fusion music singer Yanet Valdés • 11:30 PM, HALL 3

Cinema: Fight Club (Dir. David Fincher, starring Edward Norton, Brad Pitt and Helena Bonham Carter) • 12 AM, HALL 1

Jam SESSION WITH Yoandry Argudín & Cuban Evolution •

SEPTEMBER 2 9 PM, HALL 1

Session Dj Productores: Tievo • PM, HALL 3

Fashion: Arte Corte Hairdressing Project • 11 PM, HALL 4

Roberto Fonseca & Temperamento in Concert • 11:15, HALL 3

Cinema: Gia (Dir. Michael Cristofer, starring Angelina Jolie) • 12 AM, HALL 1

Rock and Roll at FAC: Eddy Escobar •

SEPTEMBER 3 9 PM, HALL 3

Mujeres de La Luna. A Teatro de la Luna theater production with good live music, boleros, Cuban anthological songs and lots of humor. • 10 PM, HALL 1

Session Dj Productores: Pauza • 11 PM, HALL 1

Concert by trovador Tony Ávila • 11:15 PM, HALL 3

Cinema: Hail Caesar! (Dir. Joel and Ethan Coen, starring Josh Brolin, George Clooney, Scarlett Johansson, and others) • CLOSED FROM SEPTEMBER 3 TO OCTOBER 4 SEP 2017 51

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FAMILY OR BUSINESS TRAVELERS, NO DISTINCTIONS IN MELIA CITY HOTELS

SEP 2017 52

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MUSIC

The best live music in Havana

magazine

lahabana. com magazine TROVA, BOLERO, TRADITIONAL MUSIC

TROVA, BOLERO, TRADITIONAL MUSIC

ASOCIACIÓN YORUBA DE CUBA Prado 615 e/ Monte y Dragones, Centro Habana T: 7863 5953

FRIDAYS AT 8:30 PM

Obiní Batá folkloric group • BARBARAM PEPITO’S BAR Calle 26 esq. a Ave. del Zoológico, Nuevo Vedado T: 7881 1808

Phone for weekly program • FIRST THURSDAY OF THE MONTH AT 6 PM

Alejandro Falcón & Cubadentro • FRIDAYS AT 10 PM

Adrián Berazaín, Mauricio Figueral & Fernando Bécquer alternating weekly • SATURDAYS AT 9 PM

Raúl Torres (trova) • CASA DE ÁFRICA

CASA DE LA BOMBILLA VERDE

CASONA DE LÍNEA

Obrapía 157 e/ Mercaderes y San Ignacio, La Habana Vieja

Calle 11 #905 e/ 6 y 8, El Vedado

Línea 505 e/ D y E, El Vedado

CENTRO CULTURAL FRESA Y CHOCOLATE

T: 5848 1331

T: 7832 5373

Calle 23 e/ 10 y 12, El Vedado

T: 7861 5798

MONSUN AT 8 PM

Performance by singer-songwriters •

MONSUN AT 8 PM

Performance by singer-songwriters •

SUNDAYS AT 8 PM

Performance by singer-songwriters •

T: 7836 2096

THURSDAYS AT 9 PM

Frank Martínez (trova) •

SEPTEMBER 9 AT 3 PM

Obiní Batá •

SEP 2017 53

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lahabana. com magazine TROVA, BOLERO, TRADITIONAL MUSIC

CENTRO DE INVESTIGACIÓN Y DESARROLLO DE LA MÚSICA CUBANA

EL GATO TUERTO

Calle G #305, entre 23 y 25, El Vedado

T: 7838 2696

Calle O e/17 y 19, El Vedado

MON-SUN AT 11 PM

SEPTEMBER 21 AT 3 PM

Various live bolero concerts every night •

Educational concert by the Piquete Típico Cubano •

Phone for weekly program

DOS GARDENIAS

Late night place to hear fabulous bolero singers. Can get smoky.

Calles 7ma. y 26, Miramar T: 7204 8188 y 7204 9517

TUESUN AT 10 PM

Performance by soloist vocalists • EL TABLAO Prado y San Rafael, Centro Habana

THURSDAYS AT 10 PM

Osdalgia • SUNDAYS AT 7:30 PM

Ivette Cepeda • EN GUAYABERA Calles 7ma. y 171, Zona 10, Alamar

HURÓN AZUL

PALACIO DE LA RUMBA

PARQUE ALMENDARES

UNIÓN DE ESCRITORES Y ARTISTAS DE CUBA (UNEAC)

San Miguel y Hospital, Centro Habana

Avenida 47 y calle 24, Playa

T: 7873 0990

T: 7203 8535 y 7205 1237

Calles 17 y H, El Vedado T: 7832 4551 al 53

SATURDAYS AT 9 PM

Bolero Nights • PABELLÓN CUBA Calles 23 y N, El Vedado T: 7832 3511

FRIDAYS AT 4 PM

TUESDAYS AT 4 PM-8 PM

Septeto Habanero • SATURDAYS AT 4 PM

Boleros & traditional music • SUNDAYS AT 3 PM

Yoruba Andabo • SUNDAYS AT 8:30 PM

SATURDAYS AT 6 PM

Singer-songwriter Frank Delgado • SALA AVENIDA Avenida 41 y calle 56, Playa T: 7203 4733

SEPTEMBER 24 AT 5 PM

Camerata del Son •

Trovador Silvio Alejandro •

Timbalaye •

SOCIEDAD ROSALÍA DE CASTRO

TEATRO MELLA

SALÓN 1930

Egido #504 e/Monte y Dragones, La Habana Vieja

Línea e/ A y B, El Vedado

COMPAY SEGUNDO

T: 7833 5651 y 7833 8696

Hotel Nacional

T: 7763 3569

THUSUN AT 7 PM

Trovador Pepe Ordaz & guests •

T: 7861 7761

HOTEL TELÉGRAFO Prado 404 esquina a Neptuno, Centro Habana T: 7861 1010 y 7861 2639

FRIDAYS AT 8 PM

Ivette Cepeda •

FRI-SUN AT 8:30 PM

Tradicionales de los 50. Traditional Cuban music, featuring Juana Bacallao, and the Gloria Matancera band. •

SEPTEMBER 1 AT 8:30 PM

Septeto Habanero • SATURDAYS AT 4 PM

Joe Bonamassa, American blues rock guitarist, singer and songwriter •

Calle O esq. a 21, El Vedado T: 7836 3663, 7836 3564

TUESDAYS AND SATURDAYS AT 9:30 PM

Traditional Cuban music concert with Buena Vista Social Club members Set in the grand Hotel Nacional. •

SEPTEMBER 2 AT 8:30 PM

Haydée Milanés in concert • SEP 2017 54

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MUSIC

The best live music in Havana

JAZZ LA ZORRA Y EL CUERVO Calle 23 e/ N y O, El Vedado T: 7833 2402

Intimate and atmospheric, which you enter through a red telephone box, is Cuba’s most famous. Open 10 PM – 1 AM SEPTEMBER 4 AT 11 PM

José Portillo y Cauce • SEPTEMBER 5 AT 11 PM

Leyanis Valdés y su grupo • SEPTEMBER 6 AT 11 PM

Emilio Morales y Los Nuevos Amigos • SEPTEMBER 7 AT 11 PM

Orlando Valle (Maraca) y su grupo • SEPTEMBER 8 AT 11 PM

Alejandro Falcón y Cubadentro • SEPTEMBER 9 AT 11 PM

Bellita y Jazztumbatá • SEPTEMBER 10 AT 11 PM

Alain d’Guevara y Open Mind •

SEPTEMBER 11 AT 11 PM

Zule Guerra y Blues de la Habana •

SEPTEMBER 18 AT 11 PM

José Portillo y Grupo Cauce Fashion: Arte Corte Hairdressing Project •

SEPTEMBER 12 AT 11 PM

Sergio y jazz en trance •

SEPTEMBER 19 AT 11 PM

Emir Santa Cruz y Espiral • SEPTEMBER 20 AT 11 PM

Julio Valdés y Pentajazz •

Lissy y Bandancha •

SEPTEMBER 17 AT 11 PM

Zoe Fuentes y Grupo Canela •

Eduardo Sandoval y Habana Jazz • SEPTEMBER 28 AT 11 PM

SEPTEMBER 22 AT 11 PM

Oscar Valdés y Diákara •

SEPTEMBER 16 AT 11 PM

Yasek Manzano y su Grupo •

Sergio y Jazz en Trance • SEPTEMBER 27 AT 11 PM

SEPTEMBER 21 AT 11 PM

SEPTEMBER 15 AT 11 PM

Michel Herrera y Madre Tierra Project •

Emilio Marini • SEPTEMBER 26 AT 11 PM

SEPTEMBER 14 AT 11 PM

Ruy López-Nussa y La Academia •

Lázaro Valdés y Son Jazz • SEPTEMBER 25 AT 11 PM

SEPTEMBER 13 AT 11 PM

Eduardo Sandoval y Habana Jazz •

SEPTEMBER 24 AT 11 PM

Janio Abreu y Aire de Concierto • SEPTEMBER 29 AT 11 PM

SEPTEMBER 23 AT 11 PM

Bellita y Jazztumbatá •

Oscar Valdés y Diákara • SEPTEMBER 30 AT 11 PM

Yasek Manzano y su grupo • SEP 2017 55

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CAFÉ JAZZ MIRAMAR Café Jazz Miramar

Cine Teatro Miramar

photo: Lorena - Mene

Ave. 5ta esq. a 94, Miramar T: (+53) 7203 7676

FRIDAYS AT 9 PM

Tony Ávila •

EL GATO TUERTO Calle O e/17 y 19, El Vedado T: 7838 2696

Phone for weekly program • MON-SUN AT 11 PM

Various live bolero concerts every night • SALÓN 1930 COMPAY SEGUNDO Hotel Nacional Calle O esq. a 21, El Vedado

TUESDAYS AND SATURDAYS AT 9:30 PM

Traditional Cuban music concert with Buena Vista Social Club members set in the grand Hotel Nacional •

SEP 2017 56

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HOTEL SAN BASILIO - STYLISH SPANISH-COLONIAL HOTEL IN HISTORIC CITY CENTER The small sage-and-cream Hotel San Basilio, reached by a pretty double staircase, is the only boutique hotel in the historic center of Santiago de Cuba. With its 1920s ambience, and its eight rooms featuring handsome colonial furniture, guests can retreat from the buzz of the city streets to the quiet of the hotel. Night owls can enjoy the evening entertainment at the Rooftop Bar-Terrace of the nearby Hotel Casa Granda, compliments of the San Basilio Hotel. www.cubatravelnetwork.com

EEUU - [email protected]atravelnetwork.com | 1 800 282 2468 (Toll Free) Europa - [email protected] | +31 (0)20 794 7962 Asia - [email protected] | 1800 198 150 (Toll Free) Rest of the world - [email protected] | +53 (0)7 214 0090

SEP 2017 57

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MUSIC

The best live music in Havana

CLASSICAL CONCERTS BASÍLICA MENOR DEL CONVENTO DE SAN FRANCISCO DE ASÍS Oficios e/ Amargura y Churruca, La Habana Vieja T: 7860 4210

SEPTEMBER 9 AT 6 PM

Recital by the D’Accord duet, made up by pianist Marita Rodríguez and clarinetist Vicente Monterrey. • SEPTEMBER 16 AT 6 PM

Performance by Johana Simón (soprano), Sahed Mohamed (tenor), the Lecuona Trio and Achelo Ensemble, among other musicians. • SEPTEMBER 23 AT 6 PM

Concert by the Exaudi Choir, singing works by Giovanni Pierluigi Palestrina, Felix Mendelssohn, Harold Gramatges and Carlos Guastavino. • ORATORIO SAN FELIPE NERI Aguiar y Obrapía, La Habana Vieja T: 7862 3243

SEPTEMBER 23 AT 4 PM

Concert entitled Musical Universe, with the performances of Anolan González (viola) and Gabriel Chorens (piano), featuring Gretchen Labrada, María A. Pérez and Osvaldo Enríquez (viola), Alioska Jiménez (soprano) and Zuleyda Suárez (guitar). •

SEP 2017 58

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magazine lahabana. com magazine CLASSICAL CONCERTS

BIBLIOTECA NACIONAL DE CUBA JOSÉ MARTÍ Independencia y 20 de Mayo, Plaza de la Revolución T: 697 6525

SEPTEMBER 8 AT 4 PM

Concert by the Youth Guitar Orchestra of Baden-Württemberg, Germany. •

CASA DEL ALBA CULTURAL Línea 556 e/ C y D, El Vedado T: 7833 2151 / 7833 2153

SEPTEMBER AT 5 PM

La Cámara de la Música Project, conducted by violinist Alfredo Muñoz. • IGLESIA DE PAULA Avenida del Puerto y San Ignacio, Alameda de Paula, La Habana Vieja Teléfono: 7860 4210

BAROQUE SEPTEMBER SEPTEMBER 2 AT 7 PM

Concert Meditative Music…for Organ and Flute, performed by the German musicians Claudia Gerauer and Stefan Baier. •

SEPTEMBER 10 AT 5 PM

En Confluencia, dedicated to guitar. • SEPTEMBER 17 AT 5 PM

Tardes Líricas project, directed by the soprano Milagros de los Ángeles. • SEPTEMBER 24 AT 5 PM

Música de Nuestra América, a project directed by guitarist Zuleida Suárez. •

SEPTEMBER 8 AT 7 PM

The Ars Longa Early Music Ensemble will perform works by Georg Philipp Telemann. • SEPTEMBER 9 AT 7 PM

Mysteries of the Christ of Gascony, performed by the Spanish company Nao d’Amores. •

SALA GONZALO ROIG. PALACIO DEL TEATRO LÍRICO NACIONAL Zulueta 253 e/ Ánimas y Neptuno, La Habana Vieja

SEPTEMBER 9 AT 6 PM

Concert by the British mezzosoprano opera Sarah-Jane Lewis. •

SEPTEMBER 15 AT 7 PM

Music and liturgy in the work for organ by Georg Philipp Telemann, by Moisés Santiesteban. • SEPTEMBER 22 AT 7 PM

The Ars Longa Early Music Ensemble will present the program entitled Monteverdi… and the debut of Italian Baroque. • SEPTEMBER 29 AT 7 PM

Concert Telemann…Bach with the Música Eterna Chamber Orchestra. •

TEATRO MARTÍ Muralla e/ Zulueta y Prado T: 7866 7153

SEPTEMBER 16 & 17 AT 6 PM

A program of Cuban concert songs and romances from Cuban and Spanish zarzuelas. • SEP 2017 59

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magazine lahabana. magazine SALSAcom DANCE SPOTS

SALSA DANCE SPOTS

The best live music in Havana

JARDINES DEL 1830

H. FLORIDA

LA GRUTA

Ayestarán e/ 20 de Mayo y Aranguren, Malecón y 22, El Vedado

BAR

Calle 23 e/ O y P, El Vedado

Obispo esq. a Cuba, La Habana Vieja

T: 7836 9320

T: 7862 4127

Basement club. A good spot to dance salsa on Wednesdays. Includes a dance performance and a salsa completion. AC still broken, so it can get hot.

T: 7838 3091

Outdoor terrace of the old mansion on the waterfront at the end of Malecón, very popular to dance salsa, not the best floor but the sea breeze and the great dancers make it all worth it. TUESDAYS, 8PM • THURSDAYS, 8PM • SUNDAYS, 6PM–1AM • ENTRANCE: 5 CUC

Hotel bar. It’s very small but popular with salsa dancing crowd. Best on Tue, Wed, and Sun (when 1830 is open)— less crowded. MON-SUN • OPENS AT 9:30 PM

WEDNESDAYS • OPENS AT 9:30 PM ENTRANCE: 3 CUC

ENTRANCE: 5 CUC (INCLD. DRINK)

SEP 2017 59

magazine lahabana. com THEATRE lahabana. com magazine

THEATER The best theatre shows and plays on now

ARGOS TEATRO

SALA HUBERT DE BLANCK

Ayestarán e/ 20 de Mayo y Aranguren, El Cerro

Calzada 657 e/ A y B, El Vedado

T: 7878 5551

CARTAS DE AMOR A STALIN Opens September 8. Fridays & Saturdays, 8:30pm / Sundays, 5pm Argos Teatro / Production: Abel González Melo

Play by Spanish playwright Juan Mayorga, which deals with the relations between intellectuals and power. • CAFÉ TEATRO BERTOLT BRECHT

T: 7830 1011 y 7836 8452

EL GALLO ELECTRÓNICO Through September 24. Saturdays & Sundays, 6pm Compañía Teatral Hubert de Blanck / Production: Fabricio Hernández

Play by Yerandy Fleites, especially written for young people, dealing with the trivialization of technology in the rural environment. •

SALA EL SÓTANO

Calles 13 e I, El Vedado

SALA TITO JUNCO. CENTRO CULTURAL BERTOLT BRECHT

T: 7832 9359

Calles 13 e I, El Vedado

T: 7832 0630

T: 7832 9359

LA MALINCHE AIRLINE Through September 8. Fridays & Saturdays, 8:30pm / Sundays, 5pm Compañía Teatral Rita Montaner / Production: César Cutén

LA FABULOSA VIDA DE LAS PLANTAS Through September 17. Fridays & Saturdays, 8:30pm / Sundays, 5pm Pequeño Teatro de La Habana / Production: José Milián

Play by José Milián, National Prizewinner for Theater, that explores the relations in Cuban families. •

CHICAGO Fridays & Saturdays, 8:30pm / Sundays, 5pm, Mefisto Teatro

Adaptation of the famous Broadway musical, with its cynical foray into the underworld, and an intentional eroticism. •

Calle K e/ 25 y 27, El Vedado

Adaptation of Pasión Malinche, by Alberto Pedro, in which a group of young people prepare a show in order to travel to Spain; everyone in the group hopes to be elected and use La Malinche, who acted as interpreter, advisor, lover and intermediary to the Spanish conquistador Hernán Cortés, as their “passport” to Europe. • SEP 2017 61

magazine lahabana. com THEATRE lahabana. com magazine CATS - anfiteatro de la Habana photo:Lorena / Mene

ANFITEATRO DEL CENTRO HISTÓRICO Peña Pobre e/ Avenida del Puerto y Cuba, La Habana Vieja T: 7801 6464

CATS Saturdays & Sundays, 9pm Production: Alfonso Menéndez

The experienced and talented Cuban director Alfonso Menéndez reruns his version of Cats, the famous musical by Andrew Lloyd Weber. A renewed cast, elaborate choreographies, beautiful voices and costumes, and an ingenious set design, will make the public pack the Havana Amphitheater, as in other shows by Menéndez. • SEP 2017 62

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magazine DANCE

DANCE The best dance performances

GRAN TEATRO DE LA HABANA ALICIA ALONSO Prado y San Rafael, Centro Habana T: 7861 3077 & 7861 5873

SEPTEMBER SEASON BY ACOSTA DANZA September 8-9, 14-16, 8:30pm / September 10 & 17, 5pm

Acosta Danza announces two world premieres: Imponderable, by Spanish choreographer Goyo Montero, based on the song of the same name by singer-songwriter Silvio Rodríguez, and Mermaid by the Moroccan-Belgian choreographer Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui, a duet created especially for Carlos Acosta, who will be dancing along with Cuban dancer Marta Ortega. The program also includes BellesLettres by the young New York City Ballet choreographer Justin Peck; El cruce sobre el Niágara (The Crossing over Niagara), a duet for two of the company’s men, by Cuban choreographer Marianela Boán; and Twelve, by the British-based Spaniard choreographer Jorge Crecis. •

Carlos Acosta photo: Courtsey of Carlos Acosta

SEP 2017 63

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Going to Cuba but short on time? These are the best two-day-and–one–night excursions, for you to discover the Island´s history, culture and nature. • Private Tour of Trinidad, Cienfuegos and Santa Clara, from Havana • Nature in the Valle de Viñales, from Havana • Topes de Collantes Overnight (Trinidad, Santa Clara and Cienfuegos), from Havana and Varadero Make your online reservation CubaTravelNetwork.com

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magazine DANCE

photo: Gabrial Davalos

TEATRO MARTÍ GRAN TEATRO DE LA HABANA ALICIA ALONSO Prado y San Rafael, Centro Habana T: 7861 3077 & 7861 5873

INDOMITABLE WALTZ September 15-16, 8:30pm / September 14, 5pm

The renovating Malpaso Company presents this work for 10 dancers, in which the Canadian choreographer Aszure Barton recreates the piece Un vals y leones en las plazas doradas, by dancer and choreographer Osnel Delgado, director of the company. The work is inspired by Ernest Hemingway’s The Old Man and the Sea, with music by Chico O’Farrill. • AFRODITA, ¡OH ESPEJO! September 29-30, 8:30pm / October 1, 5pm

This superproduction by choreographer Rosario Cárdenas with her company, with music specially composed by Frank Fernández, draws a parallel between Aphrodite and the Orisha Ochún of the Yoruba pantheon. This choreography demands a great deal technically and physically for its 13 dancers, and displays eroticism, the conceptual complexity and the sense of composition that is customary in Rosario Cardenas, National Prizewinner of Dance 2013. •

Dragones y Zulueta, La Habana Vieja T: 7866 7153

CONCERT PROGRAM September 9, 8:30pm / September 10, 5pm

Performance by the Danza Espiral Company from Matanzas Province, which has been acclaimed for its remarkable level of performance and interpretation of its dancers and a ductility that allows them to assimilate the most current tendencies and also incorporate popular and Afro-Cuban dances. • GRADUATION CONCERT September 30, 6pm

Closing ceremony of the choreographic workshop of the Fernando Alonso National School of Ballet. • SEP 2017 65

magazine lahabana. com lahabana. com magazine ART EXHIBITION

ART EXHIBITIONS

The best art exhibitions and art gallery openings GALERÍA ARTIS 718 Calles 7ma. y 18, Miramar T: 7204 7768

GALERÍA CASA 8 Calle 8 #306 e/ 13 y 15, El Vedado T: 7204 0503

GALERÍA GALIANO Galiano 256 e/ Concordia y Neptuno, Centro Habana T: 7860 0224

SEPTEMBER 6-30

Post-it 4, group show of the works selected for this competition held for artists under 35 years. This is an excellent opportunity to get acquainted with young Cuban artistic creation in all of its art forms. The works will be put on sale at Galería Collage Habana (San Rafael 103 e/ Consulado e Industria, Centro Habana. T: 7833 3826 & 7833 0420). •

CASA DE LA BOMBILLA VERDE Calle 11 entre 6 y 8, El Vedado

THROUGHOUT SEPTEMBER

Rodilla en tierra. Through 22 intervened photographs, painter and engraver Diana Balboa makes use of artist Claudia Rojas’ iconographic testimony to refer to the difficult conditions when returning to the Island, and the difficult reintegration in its context. The exhibition is accompanied by the screening of the video “Rodilla en tierra,” directed by Claudia Rojas and based on a poem by Marilyn Bobes, with music by singer-songwriter Augusto Blanca • CENTRO DE DESARROLLO DE LAS ARTES VISUALES San Ignacio y Teniente Rey, La Habana Vieja T: 7862 5279, 7862 9295 & 7862 3533

THROUGHOUT SEPTEMBER

Paisajes, retratos y naturalezas muertas, group show of landscapes, portraits and still lives by artists Adriana Arronte, Enrique Báster, Ariadna Contino, Felipe Dulzaides, Adonis Flores and Los Carpinteros •

SEP 2017 66

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FACTORÍA HABANA O’Reilly 308 e/ entre Habana y Aguiar, La Habana Vieja T: 7864 9518 y 7861 0791

THROUGHOUT SEPTEMBER

Índice de imágenes, by José Manuel Mesía, who using painting and installation and through a process marked by the study of episodes of the Cuban wars of independence, examines the mechanisms of rewriting history, the apocryphal, the construction of imaginaries and the myths that are created around facts. A Lab of Ideas on the work of this young artist will be held on September 21, 6pm. • PALACIO DEL SEGUNDO CABO

CASA VÍCTOR HUGO

O’Reilly y Tacón, La Habana Vieja

O’Reilly 311 e/ Habana y Aguiar, La Habana Vieja

THROUGH DECEMBER 31

T: 7866 7590-91

THROUGH SEPTEMBER 15

Naturalezas del Art Nouveau, organized by the Réseau Art Nouveau Network, an international institution responsible for the documentation, research and protection of the World Art Nouveau heritage, aims to introduce the viewer in this style through its main features, associated with nature. •

Todas las cosas visibles esconden cosas visibles. The exhibition by Cuban artist Alejandro Alexis García Núñez, pays homage to the Belgian surrealist artist René Magritte •

GALERÍA EL REINO DE ESTE MUNDO

CENTRO PROVINCIAL DE ARTES PLÁSTICAS Y DISEÑO

Biblioteca Nacional de Cuba José Martí

Oficios 362 e/ Luz y Santa Clara, La Habana Vieja

Boyeros e/ 20 de Mayo y Aranguren, Plaza de la Revolución T: 7881 7657

THROUGH SEPTEMBER 16

Muestra homenaje a Raúl Martínez, en su 90 aniversario, this exhibition tribute to National Prizewinner for Visual Arts Raúl Martínez on occasion of his 90th birthday, includes part of the production of this photographer, designer and painter, a pioneer of pop art in Cuba. •

T: 7861 2546 & 7866 0280

SEPTEMBER 5-OCTOBER 5

Poemas capitales, retrospective exhibition of Cuban artist and author Jesús Lara Sotelo, which includes ceramics, sculptures, paintings, performance and video art that show the communion between poetry and visuality in his work. According to the artist himself, “I consider myself a playwright who paints, who somehow tells stories, and tries to reveal little frequented universes.” •

SEP 2017 67

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MUSEO NACIONAL DE BELLAS ARTES. EDIFICIO DE ARTE CUBANO Trocadero e/ Monserrate y Zulueta, La Habana Vieja T: 7862 0140, 7861 5777

SUN, SAND AND NATURE ALL TOGETHER

THROUGH OCTOBER 23

Sin Máscaras. Arte afrocubano contemporáneo. Without Masks: Contemporary Afro-Cuban Art, probably the National Museum of Fine Arts exhibition of the year, is made up of works from the Von Christierson Collection (Watch Hill Foundation, London). The 149 pieces by 40 Cuban artists from the past 60 years include paintings on canvas and wood, watercolors, glass and enamel on aluminum foil, drawings, engravings, collages, patchwork, bronze and iron sculptures, soft sculptures, wooden sculptures, photographs, installations, video installation and video art. The exhibition El último cabildo de Yemayá, by Cuban photographer Roberto Salas, will be presented in the lobby of the museum’s Antonio Rodríguez Morey Documentation Center. A program of lectures (with simultaneous translation) by guest experts will be held during the exhibition. • MUSEO NACIONAL DE BELLAS ARTES. EDIFICIO DE ARTE UNIVERSAL San Rafael e/ Zulueta y Monserrate, La Habana Vieja T: 7862 0140, 7861 5777

THROUGH SEPTEMBER 11

Ö exhibits, for the first time in Latin America, eleven recent works by the renowned German artist Albert Oehlen, who has ventured into NeoExpressionism, abstractionism and digital art. • THROUGH OCTOBER 23

Resistencia, by African-American artist Ben Jones, explores pressing issues such as environmentalism, survival on the planet and racial violence. • SEPTEMBER 22-OCTOBER 22

Boris Lurie. A wide-ranging exhibition of the work of the Russian-born Jewish artist [Leningrad 1924-New York 2008], survivor of the Holocaust and founder of the NO!art movement, which calls for art leading to social action. The intention of this exhibition, made possible thanks to the collaboration between the Boris Lurie Art Foundation and the National Museum of Fine Arts of Havana, is to disseminate the artist’s creative agenda and to stimulate reflection in all those who decide to engage with the vast “Lurie Universe.” • SEP 2017 68

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CASTLE IN THE CLOUDS, A MEDIEVAL MANSION IN CUBA A beautiful hotel with outstanding views of Soroa’s forests. A peaceful, romantic and luxury retreat — ideal for escaping stressful city life. Enjoy the heights of El Fuerte Hill, walk to the largest orchid garden in Cuba, and embrace Cuba’s lush nature. Exclusive access through Cuba Travel Network

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SEP 2017 69

magazine lahabana. com lahabana. com magazine ART EXHIBITION

LICEO ARTÍSTICO Y LITERARIO DE LA HABANA Mercaderes entre Empedrado y O’Reilly, La Habana Vieja

MUSEO DE ARTE COLONIAL Plaza de la Catedral, La Habana Vieja T: 7862 6440

PALACIO LOMBILLO Empedrado e/ Mercaderes y San Ignacio, La Habana Vieja T: 7860 4311

THROUGHOUT SEPTEMBER

Grabados de la colección del Taller Experimental de la Gráfica, a selection of graphic artwork created over the 55 years in the life of the Graphic Experimental Workshop of Havana. Lectures and audiovisual presentations have also been programmed. • TALLER EXPERIMENTAL DE GRÁFICA DE LA HABANA Callejón del Chorro #62, Plaza de la Catedral, La Habana Vieja T: 7801 3179

SEPTEMBER 14-OCTOBER 15

Solo show by Ania García Lorent, Chilean artist who will also offer a workshop on Moku Hanga, the traditional Japanese woodblock printing technique, from September 11-15, at 4pm. • GRAN TEATRO DE LA HABANA ALICIA ALONSO Prado 458 e/ San José y San Rafael, Centro Habana

VITRINA DE VALONIA

T: 7863 6690

San Ignacio 356 e/ Teniente Rey y Muralla, Plaza Vieja, La Habana Vieja

THROUGH SEPTEMBER 15

…... se hace camino al andar exhibits the most recent acquisitions for the National Council of Visual Arts Collection, some of which are being exhibited for the first time. A total of 93 works by 43 artists from different generations, genres, media, aesthetics and languages, testifies to the richness and diversity of Cuban art today. The exhibitors include classics from the first republican avant-garde, such as Carlos Enríquez; representatives of the abstraction pioneers like Pedro de Oraá; members of the “1970s generation”, such as Pedro Pablo Oliva, Joel Jover and Nelson Domínguez; the emergence in the 1980s, such as José Manuel Fors, René Peña and Lázaro Saavedra, and members of the younger generations who have already established themselves within the Cuban art panorama today, like Luis Enrique Camejo, Mabel Poblet, Niels Reyes or Michel “Pollo” Pérez. •

T: 7801 8561

THROUGH SEPTEMBER 9

Manitas de Amberes comprises a collection of 60 designs by Belgian graphic artists inspired by this format, which also serves as the template for the annual Antwerpse Handjes competition. •

Museo de arte Universal photo:Yadira Montero

SEP 2017 70

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Fototeca de Cuba photo:Lorena / Mene

FOTOTECA DE CUBA

GALERÍA RUBÉN MARTÍNEZ VILLENA

Mercaderes 307 e/ Muralla y Teniente Rey, Plaza Vieja, La Habana Vieja

Obispo 59 e/ Baratillo y Oficios, La Habana Vieja

T: 7801 8530

T: 7862 9037-39

THROUGH SEPTEMBER 9

Muestra colectiva de imágenes históricas, group show with works from this institution’s collection. • Tributo al glamur, by Joanne “Titina” Soto, winner of the Raúl Corrales 2016 Award, pays tribute to Cuban fashion of the 1980s and 90s through presentday pictures taken by the photographer of several designers and models of that era. • SEPTEMBER 15-OCTOBER 15

Retratos de Artistas/Fotógrafos Cubanos. Exhibition of a selection of portrait photographs taken by Chino Arcos, of Cuban photographers and artists. •

OPENS SEPTEMBER 9

Señales débiles o inexistentes, show by Antonio Gómez Margolles, curated by Diana Gort, is composed of five large photographic polyptychs, belonging to the series “The lapses of Faraday,” made in 2017. • SOCIEDAD CIVIL PATRIMONIO, COMUNIDAD Y MEDIO AMBIENTE Amargura No. 160 e/ Mercaderes y San Ignacio, La Habana Vieja

OPENS SEPTEMBER 9

Habana de mis sueños, by Tomás Inda Barrera, presents poetic images of the Havana of the photographer’s dreams. • SEP 2017

71

LATEST FILM NEWS FERNANDO PÉREZ DE NUEVO TRAS LAS CÁMARAS Fernando Pérez, the best Cuban director today, has begun shooting Insumisa, codirected with Laura Hunter, who is also the scriptwriter. The film tells the story of Enriqueta Faber, a Swiss-French woman who was the first woman to practice medicine in Cuba, in the town of Baracoa, in the 1920s of the 19th century, but disguised as a man, for which she was prosecuted and deported to New Orleans. Knowing Fernando Pérez previous films, it is to be expected that this film will tell more than an anecdote and lead viewers to reflect on individual freedom and the weight of conventionalisms. The cast is headed by French actress Sylvie Testud, featuring Cuban actors Mario Guerra, Héctor Noas and Yisel González.•

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magazine lahabana. com magazine LATEST FILM NEWS

A GOOD HARVEST IN SPAIN The Cuban film Esteban, directed by Jonal Cosculluela, received the Platino Award—Ibero-America’s annual film awards—in the Film and Education Values category. The film deals with the sorrow and misunderstandings that a child in need must face to achieve his dream of being a pianist. Solid performances and a score of beautiful lyricism and apparent simplicity by Chucho Valdés round out the plot. Meanwhile, the Cuba-Spain coproduction Four Seasons in Havana directed by Spaniard Félix Viscarret and based on four novels by Cuban author Leonardo Padura, won the Platino Award in the Best Ibero-American Film Miniseries or Teleseries category. Actor Jorge Perugorría, well known for his part as Diego in Strawberry and Chocolate, plays the role of Detective Mario Conde, a rebel and unconventional character created by Padura. • SEP 2017 72

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Driving around the island is a great way to discover places off the tourist trail helping you make the most of your trip to Cuba. It’s always a good idea to make reservations in advance, especially during the months September to December. Right now we have vehicle availability for that date. By doing so you’ll save time and avoid wasting days of your vacation looking for a car available for rent. This is the best time to review our offers and book the car that best suits your itinerary. GUARANTEED FROM NOW FOR YOUR CUBA VACATION!

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SEP 2017 73

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magazine lahabana. com IN EVENTS AND FESTIVALS CUBA

EVENTS AND FESTIVALS IN CUBA The best events happening around Cuba

MELIÁ COHÍBA

TRYP HABANA LIBRE

TRYP HABANA LIBRE

Paseo y 1ra., El Vedado

Calle L e/ 23 y 25, El Vedado

Calle L e/ 23 y 25, El Vedado

T: 7833 3636

T: 7834 6100

T: 7834 6100

SEPTEMBER 11-17

¡TODOS SOMOS MÉXICO! Meliá Cuba invites you to celebrate the Mexican Patriotic Festivities experiencing the best of Aztec culture. • SEPTEMBER 11 AT 5-7 PM

¿Qué onda, Habana? Opening of the event with the presentation of Mexican chef Alejandro Ruiz (Casa Oaxaca) and an exhibition by a Mexican artist. • SEPTEMBER 12 AT 5-7 PM

¡Mezclando sabores y culturas! Cuban/Mexican cocktail making. • SEPTEMBER 13 AT 5-7 PM

¡Cuba y México, tierras de campeones! A meeting of Cuban athletes united to Mexico by close personal and professional ties. •

SEPTEMBER 14 AT 5-7 PM

¡Como agua para chocolate! Talk on the linkages between Cuban and Mexican literatures. • SEPTEMBER 14 AT 8 PM

Mexican Dinner by Guest chef at the Sierra Maestra Restaurant • SEPTEMBER 15 AT 5-7 PM

¡Viva México! Fashion show inspired by Mexico and its culture. • SEPTEMBER 16 AT 5-7 PM

¡Celebrando con pasión! Show with romantic songs by Cuban and Mexican composers. • SEPTEMBER 14-16 AT 10 PM

Cuba-México show at the Turquino Nightclub. • SEPTEMBER 16 AT 10 PM

Cuba-México show at the Meliá Cohíba Café, featuring Buena Vista Social Club and a mariachi band. •

ADÁN Y EVA • TEMPTATION COCKTAILS

Cuban bartender Sergio Serrano named the cocktail that made him the World Champion of the International Bartenders Association in 2003 after the most famous couple in history: Adam and Eve. But today, Adam and Eve is not just a drink—it is a cultural project at the Tryp Habana Libre Hotel where live music is integrated with singers and DJs, exhibitions of visual arts and design, and other attractive proposals. Every Thursday, the hotel’s Lobby Bar Siboney offers performances by the Shandra Duo, which combines the sounds of electronic violin and cello with the art of Cuban DJs (8:30 PM), and the Adam and Eve cocktail is created “live” by its creator (9 PM) followed by the performance of Sweet Lizzy Project to close evening. •

SEP 2017 74

UPCOMING EVENTS IN 2017

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lahabana. UPCOMING com EVENTSmagazine IN 2017

CERVECERÍA ANTIGUO ALMACÉN DE LA MADERA Y EL TABACO, LA HABANA Alameda de Paula, La Habana Vieja

OCTOBER 11-15 AT 8 PM

III SEMANA DE LA MODA EN LA HABANA Fashion shows galore during the 3rd Fashion Week in Havana. Cuban fashion designers will present their most recent designs using various craft techniques and fabrics, metalwork accessories, costume jewelery, and others. With a wonderful view of Havana Bay, this hip microbrewery offers ample space for the fashion shows and music concerts that have been scheduled for the event. • THEATERS AND PLAZAS IN HAVANA OCTOBER 20-29

17 FESTIVAL DE TEATRO DE LA HABANA Once again, the curtains of Havana’s theaters will open to host the 17th Havana Theater Festival, which presents a selection of the most significant works in the Cuban and international theatrical scene. The event will focus on the linkages between theater, society and resistance. Companies from France, Germany, Spain, Dominican Republic, Argentina, Chile, Uruguay, Mexico, Brazil and Canada have announced 16 plays and Cuba, 37. • HAVANA NOVEMBER 12-18

BAILA EN CUBA 2017  XII Encuentro Mundial de Bailadores y Academias de Baile de Casino y Salsa This World Meeting of Casino and Salsa Dancers and Dance Academies offers the chance to get acquainted with Cuban salsa and other rhythms through classes and workshops taught by teachers from the University of the Arts. The event’s theme this year is the influence of Spanish music in Cuban popular dances. The meeting includes five open air night shows and concerts featuring famous Cuban casino and salsa bands, like Los Van Van and Charanaga Habanera. Baila en Cuba 2017 will bring together over 700 salsa musicians and singers hailing from more than 45 countries from all over the world. • SEP 2017 75

magazine lahabana. com FOR lahabana. com magazine KIDS

FOR KIDS

TEATRO EL ARCA Avenida del Puerto y Obrapía, La Habana Vieja T: 7861 0568

EL VENDEDOR DE CACHIPORRAS Fridays, Saturdays & Sundays, 3pm

Maniobras Teatro presents this play by Héctor Eduardo Carrazana, produced by Bruno Leoni with the performance of Kenia Rodríguez Núñez. •

Havana’s best things to do with the kids Carlos Acosta photo: Courtsey of Carlos Acosta

CINE YARA

MUSEO DE ARTE COLONIAL

Calles L y 23, El Vedado

Plaza de la Catedral, La Habana Vieja

T: 7832 9430

T: 7862 6440

FANTASÍAS. CIRCO NACIONAL DE CUBA Saturdays & Sundays, 3pm

THEATER FOR KIDS Saturdays and Sundays, 11am

Juggling, contortionism, strongman, equilibrism with objects, dancing with fire, magic shows and illusionism, and clowns are some of the attractions presented by the National Circus in this regular venue in the center of Vedado. •

Theater show conducted by Estudio Teatral Aldaba. •

SEP 2017 76

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RESTAURANTS

magazine

magazine com 25lahabana. PLACES TO EAT IN HAVANA

25 places to eat in Havana

BELLA CIAO HOMELY ITALIAN

GREAT SERVICE, GOOD PRICES. A REAL HOME FROM HOME. Calle 19 y 72, Playa (+53) 7206 1406

EL CAFÉ CAFÉ

CHARMING LITTLE EUROPEAN STYLE CAFÉ WITH SOURDOUGH SANDWICHES AND BREAKFAST SERVED ALL DAY. Calle 19 y 72, Playa (+53) 7206 1406

CAFÉ BOHEMIA CAFÉ

EL ATELIER EXPERIMENTAL FUSION

INTERESTING DÉCOR, INTERESTING MENU.

BOHEMIAN FEEL. GREAT SANDWICHES, SALADS & JUICES. Calle San Ignacio #364, Plaza Vieja, Habana Vieja (+53) 5403 1568, (+53) 7860 3722

Calle 5ta e/ Paseo y 2, El Vedado (+53) 7836 2025

BVCC

EL COCINERO

DOÑA EUTIMIA

INDIAN

INTERNATIONAL

TRADITIONAL CUBAN

BRILLIANT COMBINATION OF AUTHENTIC INDIAN FOOD AND LIVE CUBAN JAZZY MUSIC EVERY NIGHT.

INDUSTRIAL CHIC ALFRESCO ROOFTOP WITH A BUZZING ATMOSPHERE

ABSOLUTELY CHARMING. EXCELLENT TRADITIONAL CUBAN CUISINE.

Tejadillo #24 esq. a Cuba, Habana Vieja

Calle 26 e/ 11 y 13, Vedado. (+53) 7832 2355

Callejón del Chorro #60C, Plaza de la Catedral, Habana Vieja

(+53) 7862 7379

(+53) 7861 1332, (+53) 5281 5883

SEP 2017 77

lahabana. com CORTE DEL PRÍNCIPE

ECLÉCTICO

ITALIAN

FUSION, ITALIAN

SERGIO’S PLACE. SIMPLE DÉCOR, SPECTACULAR FOOD.

BEAUTIFUL MANSION IN THE HEART OF EL VEDADO SERVING EXCELLENT FOOD.

Calle 9na esq. a 74, Miramar

Calle Paseo #206, El Vedado

(+53) 5255 9091

(+53) 7831 3423, (+53) 5360 0384

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magazine com 25lahabana. PLACES TO EAT IN HAVANA

LA GUARIDA CONTEMPORARY FUSION

CUBA’S BEST KNOWN RESTAURANT. PROFESSIONAL AND CHARMING. Concordia #418 e/ Gervasio y Escobar, Centro Habana (+53) 7866 9047

LA HABANERA INTERNATIONAL AND VEGETARIAN

EXCELLENT FOOD AND VEGGIE-FRIENDLY MENU. LOVELY, MAJESTIC HOUSE. Calle 16 #506 e/ 7ma y 5ta, Miramar, Playa (+53) 7202 9941

NAZDAROVIE

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SOVIET

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WELL-DESIGNED SOVIET DÉCOR, EXCELLENT FOOD & SERVICE.

CONTEMPORARY DÉCOR. GREAT SEA VIEW. GOOD FOOD.

Malecón #25 3er piso e/ Prado y Cárcel, Centro Habana

Ave. 3raA y Final #11, La Puntilla, Miramar

(+53) 7860 2947

EL DEL FRENTE

(+53) 7209 4838

LAMPARILLA

OTRA MANERA

SAN CRISTÓBAL

TAPAS BAR

INTERNATIONAL

TRADITIONAL CUBAN

FRIENDLY SPOT WITH CREATIVE DRINKS AND TAPAS IN THE MIDDLE OF OLD HAVANA.

BEAUTIFUL MODERN DÉCOR. INTERESTING MENU AND GOOD SERVICE.

DESERVEDLY POPULAR. CONSISTENTLY GREAT FOOD. KITSCH DÉCOR.

Calle #35 e/ 20 y 41, Playa.

O’Reilly #303 e/ Habana y Aguiar, Habana Vieja

Lamparilla #361 e/ Aguacate y Villegas, Habana Vieja

(+53) 7203 8315

San Rafael #469 e/ Lealtad y Campanario, Centro Habana

(+53) 7863 0206

(+53) 5289 5324

TAPAS BAR

CUBAN HIPSTER PLACE WITH INNOVATIVE COCKTAILS AND TAPAS ON THE ROOFTOP.

www.otramaneralahabana.com

(+53) 7860 1705

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SANTY

STARBIEN

CAFÉ LAURENT

NAUTILUS

SEAFOOD/SUSHI

CONTEMPORARY CUBAN

INTERNATIONAL

MEDITERRANEAN/SEAFOOD

AUTHENTIC FISHERMAN’S SHACK SERVICING WORLD-CLASS SEAFOOD.

CALM QUALITY PLACE IN OLD VEDADO MANSION.

BEAUTIFUL PENTHOUSE RESTAURANT WITH LOVELY TERRACE.

DELICIOUS MEALS. LOVELY VERANDA GREAT FOR LONG LUNCHES.

Calle 240A #3023 esq. a 3ra C, Jaimanitas

Calle 29 #205 e/ B y C, El Vedado

Calle M #257 e/ 19 y 21, El Vedado

Calle 84 #1116 E/ 11 y 13, Playa

(+53) 5286 7039

(+53) 7830 0711

(+53) 7831 2090

(+53) 5237 3894, (+53) 5400 1068

TIEN TAN MIRAMAR

CHA CHA CHA

NERO DI SEPPIA

VISTAMAR

CHINESE

INTERNATIONAL

ITALIAN

INTERNATIONAL

THE MOST POPULAR PLACE AMONG CHINESE COMMUNITY. THIS IS A LITTLE UPSCALE TO ITS SISTER RESTAURANT IN BARRIO CHINO.

VIBRANT RESTAURANT ACROSS THE STREET FROM THE GRANMA MEMORIAL. NICE DÉCOR. FUSION CUBAN CUISINE. AC FOR HOT DAYS IS A PLUS.

Calle 44 #4406 e/ 3ra & 5ta, Miramar

Monserrate #159 e/ Tejadillo y Chacón, Habana Vieja

(+53) 7206 2543

WALTER’S PLACE. GREAT PIZZA. QUICK & RELIABLY GOOD. CCalle 6 #122 e/ 1ra y 3ra Miramar, Playa (+53) 5478 7871

BEAUTIFUL SEA VIEW FROM TERRACE OVERLOOKING POOL. GREAT PLACE FOR DRINKS BY THE POOL AT SUNSET. Ave. 1ra #2206 e/ 22 y 24, Miramar (+53) 7203 8328

(+53) 7867 2450

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THE COLLECTION BY PULLMAN UNIQUE & EXCLUSIVE, ONLY IN CAYO COCO

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lahabana. com TOP PICK

EL COCINERO Terrace

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Style of food: International/Caribbean Cost: Moderate Type of place: Private (Paladar)

Best for: Buzzing atmosphere on the rooftop of an old factory, great lounge music. Don’t Miss. Gin & tonic, mango daiquiri. It’s best to share the variety of dishes. Calle 26 e/ 11 y 13, El Vedado (+53) 7832 2355

Style of food: Fusion, Italian Cost: Expensive Type of place: Private (Paladar)

ECLÉCTICO

TOP PICK

Best for Quality decor, fine service and great food. Don’t miss Fresh pasta, the fish…and the ice cream of innovative flavors! Calle Paseo No. 206, El Vedado (+53) 7 831-3423, (+53) 5360-0384

TOP PICK

BVCC Buena Vista Curry Club

Style of food: Indian Cost: Moderate Type of place: Private (Paladar)

Best for: Authentic and delicious Indian dishes in a lovely ambience. Outstanding live Cuban bands every night take you back in time in the heart of Old Havana. Cigar friendly. Don’t Miss: Butter chicken, fresh naans from tandoori oven. Tejadillo #24 esq. a Cuba, Habana Vieja (+53) 7862 7379 SEP 2017 81

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La Guarida

TOP PICK

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Style of food: Contemporary fusion Cost: Expensive Type of place: Private (Paladar)

Best for: Authentic, charming and intimate atmosphere in Cuba’s best known restaurant. Great food, professional. Classy. Don’t Miss: Uma Thurman, Beyoncé or the Queen of Spain if they happen to be dining next to you. Concordia #418 e/ Gervasio y Escobar, Centro Habana. (+53) 7-866-9047 Style of food: Traditional Cost: Moderate Type of place: Private (Paladar)

Café Bohemia

TOP PICK

Best for: taking a break from long walks and seeking shelter from the stifling Cuban.. Don’t miss: location in the cool inner courtyard of the colonial building. Ground floor of the Palacio de la Casa del Conde de Lombillo, Calle San Ignacio #364 (+53) 5- 403-1 568, (+53) 7-836-6567 www. havanabohemia.com

TOP PICK

Corte del Principe

Type of food: Italian Cost: Expensive Type of place: Private restaurant (Paladar)

Best for: Cozy atmosphere, excellent service. Don’t miss: Spectacular homemade Italian pastas. Calle 9na esq. a 74, Playa (+53) 5255 9091 SEP 2017 82

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H AVA N A’ S

TRENDING BARS E S PAC I O S Laid-back contemporary bar with a real buzz in the back beer garden. Calle 10 #510 e/ 5ta y 31, Miramar (+53) 7836 3031

KING’S BAR Popular night spot for locals. Thursdays and Fridays also live music. Calle 23 #667 e/D y E, El Vedado (+53) 7833 0556 www.kingbarhavana.com

SIÁ KARÁ CAFÉ Charming bohemian bar where Paris meets Havana. Barcelona esq. a Industria, Centro Habana (+53) 7867 4084 www.siakaracafe.com

O ’ R E I L LY 3 0 4 Trendy little tapas bar with innovative cocktails. Don’t miss the fresh fruit daiquiris. O’Reilly #304 e/ Habana y Aguiar, Habana Vieja (+53) 7863 0206, (+53) 5264 4725

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H AVA N A’ S

BEST BARS WHITH LIVE MUSIC CORNER CAFÉ Great live music every day, very popular among locals. Good tapas. Calle B y 1ra, El Vedado (+53) 7837 1220

EFE BAR Currently hot bar with live music and DJs. Calle 23 y F, El Vedado (+53) 584 3229

FAC FABRICA DE ARTE CUBANO Place of Cuban culture with industrial scale of hipness. This literally is an art factory–multiple art galleries and endless performance venues. Always packed with funky crowds. There are several bars and a newly opened restaurant. Check website for FAC’s opening and closing schedules. Calle 26 e/ 11 y 13, El Vedado (next to the Puente de Hierro) (+53) 5-329-6325 www.fac.cu

PA Z I L LO Recently opened bar and restaurant with fresh design offers live music every day at 9:30 pm except on Tuesdays.

Calle 5ta #604 e/ 4 y 6, El Vedado (+53) 7835 1106

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BEST CLUBS SANGRI-LA Basement bar/club that gets packed by locals especially on weekends. Greta for hanging out with the cool kids of the Havana Farándula in the most popular bar/club. Ave. 21 e/ 36 y 42, Miramar (+53) 5359 6517

FA N TA XY BAR Hot new bar/lounge frequented mostly by fashionable Cubans.

SARAO’S BAR Modern white bar in Vedado with live concerts. Calle 17 esq. a E, El Vedado (+53) 7832 0433

BOLABANA Popular bar with music where everyone ends up dancing. Calle 39 e/ 48 y 50, Playa

Calle 7ma A e/ 70 y 66, Miramar Opens at 10pm

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H AVA N A’ S

BEST TRADITIONAL BARS SLOPPY JOE’S BAR Beautifully renovated. Full of history. Popular. Lacks a little ‘grime’. Ánimas esq. a Zulueta, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-866-7157

ANTIGUO ALMACÉN DE LA MADERA Y E L TA B AC O Microbrewery in old warehouse overlooking the restored docks. Simply brilliant.

E L F LO R I D I TA Hemingway’s daiquiri bar. Touristy but always full of life. Great cocktails. Obispo #557 esq. a Monserrate, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-867-1299

Antiguo Almacén de la Madera y del Tabaco. Avenida del Puerto y San Ignacio, La Habana Vieja SEP 2017 86

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H AVA N A’ S BEST SPOTS FOR A SUNSET DRINK BELLA HABANA POOL BAR The best place for a sunset drink overlooking Old Havana is this brand new and chic 5* hotel roof. Gran Hotel Manzana Kempinski La Habana San Rafael e/ Monserrate y Zulueta, Habana Vieja (+53) 7869 9100

LA GUARIDA ROOFTOP BAR Great cocktail bar overlooking Centro Habana rooftops. Concordia #418 e/ Gervasio y Escobar, Centro Habana (+53) 7866 9047

V I STA M A R POOL Tranquility by the sea at this 1950s villa with a beautiful pool. Ave. 1ra #2206 e/ 22 y 24 Miramar (+53) 7203 8328

H. NACIONAL TERRACE The garden terrace overlooking the Malecón in this historic hotel is the best place for the late afternoon mojito. Calle 21 y O, El Vedado (+53) 7836 3564

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Luxury hotel overlooking Parque Central

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BOUTIQUE HOTELS IN OLD H AVA N A FLORIDA

Beautifully restored colonial house. Obispo #252, esq. a Cuba, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-862-4127

Neptuno e/ Prado y Zulueta, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-860-6627

SANTA ISABEL Luxurious historic mansion facing Plaza de Armas

PALACIO DEL MARQUÉS...

Cuban baroque meets modern minimalist Oficios #152 esq. a Amargura, Habana Vieja

Narciso López, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-860-8201

SARATOGA

Stunning view from roof-top pool. Beautiful décor. Paseo del Prado #603 esq. a Dragones, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-860-8201

HOSTAL VALENCIA

Immensely charming, great value. Oficios #53 esq. a Obrapía, Habana Vieja (+53) 7-867-1037

CONDE DE VILLANUEVA

TERRAL

Wonderful ocean front location. Newly renovated. Malecón esq. a Lealtad, Centro Habana (+53) 7-862-8061

Delightfully small and intimate. For cigar lovers. Mercaderes #202, Lamparilla (+53) 7-862-9293

H AVA N A’ S

BEST HOTELS

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MELIÁ HABANA

OCCIDENTAL MIRAMAR

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H10 HABANA PANORAMA

Oasis of polished marble and professional calm.

Attractive design & extensive facilities.

Good value, large spacious modern rooms.

Cascades of glass. Good wi-fi. Modern.

Ave Paseo e/ 1ra y 3ra, Vedado (+53) 7- 833-3636

Ave. 3ra y 70, Miramar (+53) 5-204-8500

Ave. 5ta. e/ 70 y 72, Miramar (+53) 7-204-3583

Ave. 3ra. y 70, Miramar (+53) 7 204-0100

FOR A SENSE OF HISTORY AMBOS MUNDOS

A must for Hemingway aficionados Calle Obispo #153 esq. a Mercaderes, Habana Vieja (+53) 7- 860-9529

MERCURE SEVILLA

HOTEL NACIONAL

RIVIERA

Stunning views from the roof garden restaurant.

Eclectic art-deco architecture. Gorgeous gardens.

Spectacular views over wave-lashed Malecón

Trocadero #55 entre Prado y Zulueta, Habana Vieja . (+53) 7-860-8560

Calle O esq. a 21, Vedado (+53) 7-835 3896

Paseo y Malecón, Vedado (+53) 7-836-4051

ECONOMICAL/BUDGET HOTELS BOSQUE

On the banks of the Río Almendares. Calle 28-A e/ 49-A y 49-B, Reparto Kohly, Playa. (+53) 7-204-9232

DEAUVILLE

Lack of pretension, great location. Galiano e/ Sán Lázaro y Malecón, Centro Habana . (+53) 7-866-8812

SAINT JOHN’S

VEDADO

Lively disco, tiny quirky pool. Popular.

Good budget option with a bit of a buzz

Calle O e/ 23 y 25, Vedado (+53) 7-833-3740

Calle O e/ 23 y 25, Vedado (+53) 7-836-4072

H AVA N A’ S

BEST HOTELS

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H AVA N A’ S BEST P R I VAT E PLACES TO S TAY SUEÑO CUBANO

M I D RA N G E - C A SA PA R T I C U L A R ( B & B ) 1932 Visually stunning, historically fascinating. Welcoming. Campanario #63 e/ San Lázaro y Laguna, Centro Habana (+53) 7-863-6203

HABANA

JULIO Y ELSA

Beautiful colonial townhouse with great location.

Cluttered bohemian feel. Hospitable.

Calle Habana #209, e/ Empedrado, y Tejadillo, Habana Vieja. (+53) 7-861-0253

Consulado #162 e/ Colón y Trocadero, Centro Habana ( +53) 7-861-8027

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U P - S C A L E B & B S ( B O U T I Q U E H O STA L S ) LA RESERVA VEDADO SUEÑO CUBANO

Old palace carefully restored, seven rooms, suites with bathrooms and featuring 24 hour service. Calle Santa Clara número 66 entre Oficios e Inquisidor. Habana Vieja 53 78660109 / 39 339 1817730

5 luxurious rooms in a renovated colonial mansion . The tropical garden in the courtyard, ideal to eat, drink and relax.

PASEO 206

Calle 2 entre 21 y 23 numero 508. Vedado, La Habana [email protected] (53) 7 8335244 http://lareservavedado.com/

Paseo, 206 – Vedado. (+53) 7 8313423, (+53) 5 3600384

Incredible boutique hotel and restaurant. Luxury and comfort combined.

PASEO 206

A PA R T M E N T R E N TA L S BOHEMIA BOUTIQUE APARTMENTS

TROPICANA PENTHOUSE

San Ignacio #364 e/ Muralla y Teniente Rey, Plaza Vieja (+53) 5- 403-1 568 (+53) 7-836-6567 www.havanabohemia.com

Galiano #60 Penthouse Apt.10 e/ San Lázaro y Trocadero (+53) 5-254-5240 www.tropicanapenthouse.com

Gorgeous 1-bedroom apartment beautifully decorated apartment overlooking Plaza Vieja.

A luxurious penthouse with huge roof terrace and breath-taking 360 degree views of Havana and the ocean.

SUITE HAVANA

Elegant 2-bedroom apartment in restored colonial building. Quality loft style décor. Lamparilla #62 altos e/ Mercaderes y San Ignacio, Habana Vieja (+53) 5-829-6524

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